Three Days on the C and O Canal || Part 2

Editor's note: This post was originally published on 6 May 2012 and was updated in August 2019 for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

This is the second post of our two-part series. Navigate to our previous post at Three Days on the C and O Canal

The confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers.  

On the morning of day two, I searched unsuccessfully for a spring at the end of the street, near the overlook of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. It had been there when my son's Scout Troop rode this section of the trail, but it seems the Park Service has since capped it off. This part of the C&O Canal in Harpers Ferry, WV, also serves as a section of the Appalachian Trail. Both trails follow the same path for a couple of miles. The Appalachian Trail is just behind me in the picture.

The trail is rich with history, both on and off the path—you just have to keep your eyes open to spot it. Take this limestone cave, for example. This is Dargan Cave, where limestone was mined and turned into hydraulic cement, which was then used in the construction of various canal structures.

Dargan Cave.

Next up on the trail is the Antietam Creek walk-in camp. Just a heads-up, this is a fee-use area. It’s a spacious campsite, with sites on both sides of the trail. The last time I camped there, it was full of Boy Scouts—so keep that in mind! They're probably not as noisy as the passing trains, though...

Not long before reaching Shepherdstown, WV, I got a flat. Flats are inevitable, so it’s best to plan for them. It's not a question of if, but when. When you stop to make a trailside repair, take your time—what you carry with you is all you have to make it work. After fixing my flat, I rode into Shepherdstown for lunch and found a Sheetz. There are other dining options in town, too. Once you cross the bridge into town, you'll reach a four-way stop. Sheetz will be on your right, and the downtown shops are to your left. I didn’t have time to explore downtown this time, but that will have to wait for another trip.

After lunch, I had planned to ride to the 80-mile point, aiming for Williamsport, just shy of the 100-mile marker. However, I was dealing with a pinch in my neck that was causing discomfort, so I decided to go with plan “B” and turn around here.

Heading back to Harper's Ferry, I planned to grab a bite to eat and then ride a few more miles down the trail to a campsite, aiming for a 55-mile ride on day three. I stopped at the Bald Eagle Island Hiker/Biker campsite—a nice, open site, though it’s right next to the train tracks, just outside the towpath. So, just like needing a patch kit, you'll also want to pack earplugs! This isn’t the only campsite where you’ll hear trains; earplugs are essential along the trail. Brunswick, MD, which is just up the road, has a train switching yard, so you’ll hear trains all night—earplugs or not!

On day three, I woke up and skipped the coffee. I decided to eat on the bike, knowing I had five to six hours of riding ahead, and didn’t want to get stuck in traffic on my way back to NOVA (Northern Virginia). It was also chilly that morning, probably in the '30s overnight, so I figured staying in motion would help warm me up.

I made a quick stop at Great Falls for lunch.

Day Three: Waltworks really proved its worth. This is exactly what I built the bike for, and it handled the terrain flawlessly. It's definitely time for a new set of tires and some fresh bar tape, and I’m sure a few new cables wouldn’t hurt either. I may not be fully into the ultra-light bikepacking scene just yet, but I’m getting closer. There’s still work to be done in that area.

As I neared the end, around mile marker 4, I started to spot some of the original mile markers.

I wrapped up my three-day trip with 17.5 hours of riding, covering a total of 178.6 miles. I had originally planned for four days to complete the trail out and back, but even if my neck hadn’t been an issue, I still think it would have taken five or six days. I ended up feeling like I was racing against the clock or trying to hit certain mile markers, and that’s not something I want to repeat.