Day Hiking in Tursunzoda Tajikistan || Part 2

Editor's note: This post was originally published on 19 March 2010 and was updated in August 2019 for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

This is the second post in our series. Navigate over to our previous post at Day Hiking in Tursunzoda Tajikistan Part 1

After completing the first leg of our journey, we left the parking area and crossed a small dirt bridge that led us onto the main street of the village. It’s astonishing to witness how, in the 21st century, people continue to live much as they have for centuries. The lifestyle here is far more challenging than what we’re accustomed to, yet there’s a quiet beauty in their simplicity. I find myself appreciating this way of life, one that is deeply connected to the land and traditions.

As we passed through, a little girl stood quietly watching us, her gaze curious yet composed. There was something captivating about her stillness as if she too had become part of the landscape—timeless and unhurried.

If you look closely at the photo above, you’ll notice the power poles, which are mounted to cement posts and held together by cables. This setup isn’t just a local quirk; it’s a common sight throughout the country, not just near the rivers. I began to wonder why it’s done this way, and it dawned on me that, in such a mountainous region, trees don’t grow tall enough to support the necessary height for power lines. To compensate, they mount the poles to cement posts, ensuring the lines are elevated. It’s a small but telling adaptation, born of necessity. It also highlights the stark reality that Tajikistan’s forests cover only 2.9% of the landmass, making this practical solution a reflection of the country’s unique challenges.

                                                                                         

A young Tajik girl watches as our group hikes past her.

As seen in the video, a young village girl watches our group of strangers with curiosity, but shyly hides behind the gate of her family’s home, her eyes peeking out from behind the wood as she observes us from a safe distance.

As I mentioned in part one, Tajikistan is landlocked, surrounded by other countries on all sides. This geographical reality got me thinking about the ancient past—who knows how many millions of years ago this very land was once covered by an expansive ocean? The evidence of this ancient history can still be seen today. In the photo below, you’ll notice a fossilized seabed embedded in the rock, a striking remnant of what was once a vast marine environment.

What makes this discovery even more awe-inspiring is the fact that we’re standing at an elevation of around 3,000 feet (914 meters) above sea level. To think that we are so high in the mountains, yet still surrounded by remnants of an ancient ocean, offers a powerful reminder of how the Earth's landscape has transformed over millions of years. It’s humbling to stand in a place where the forces of nature have left their mark so deeply and to witness firsthand how time can reshape not only the land but the very history beneath our feet.

Fossilized seabed located at 3000ft/914m above sea level.

As we began our climb into the mountains just outside their village, two young boys from the village decided to join our group. These boys, full of energy and enthusiasm, could easily outpace all of us, running circles around our weary legs. It was clear they were no strangers to the terrain.

Our guides, however, cautioned us not to give anything to the boys. They explained that village children often beg for small handouts from visitors, and the guides didn’t want to encourage this behavior, as it could lead to dependence and a cycle of expectation. It’s a difficult instruction to follow, especially when you realize that the value of the clothes and gear we were wearing could be worth more than what an entire family in the village might earn in a year. The disparity was hard to ignore, and the temptation to share something with the children was strong. Yet, we understood the importance of respecting the guide’s wishes and fostering a sense of dignity and self-sufficiency in the community.

Village boys follow us on our hike.

 We paused for a short break to take in the incredible sight of dinosaur footprints etched into the rock. One of our guides, moving with surprising agility, scrambled across the mountainside, expertly navigating the steep terrain to help us spot the ancient imprints.

As I stood there, it was hard to grasp the magnitude of what I was seeing. When that dinosaur first left its footprint, this rock wall was completely flat, lying on the ground as part of the earth’s surface. The dinosaur walked here long before this mountain ever existed. In fact, it roamed a land that was vastly different from what we see today—a landscape that would eventually be lifted into towering peaks by the slow, immense forces of tectonic change. The realization that we were standing on a piece of that distant past, where a creature had once walked, was awe-inspiring. 

 

Our guide points out the dinosaur prints. Can you see the prints made millions of years ago?

Just below the guide's knee, you can spot two distinct imprints in the rock, each about 18 inches long—that's where the dinosaur once left its mark. It’s incredible to think that when those footprints were made, this granite wall was flat on the ground, long before it was lifted into the sky by the forces of nature.

In this remote area, the only visible trails are those made by cows or donkeys as they make their way up the mountain to graze. However, in the short video below, you'll see a trail that was recently formed by the people walking ahead of me, leaving their own marks on this rugged landscape.

Follow the rest of our journey at Day Hiking in Tursunzoda Tajikistan Part 3